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Same as Jade, 29 August 2014
By Steve Nicks (Peak District)
I have been climbing for many years and I have tons of ropes and belay equipment. I bought the Edelrid Perfect 10mm rope and this belay device for indoor use. It seems to have little to no grip, even when the lock arm is fully down the mechanism still wants to releasel!! The gap for the rope appears very wide, even with 10mm rope! I have now purchased the Petzl Reverso 4 after trying it in store and there is 1000% more resistance and spot on when you want to give more rope! Would hate to give this belay device to a beginner!!
rubbish in guide mode, 24 April 2014
By alex (abingdon)
jams up on all but brand new rope when in guide (autolocking) mode, swapped it for a friends black diamond atc guide when it jammed on a multipitch and that worked perfectly. buy that instead
Brilliant piece of kit, 28 October 2013
By ChrisH4 (West Midlands)
light, strong, tough.
used mainly for top roping so far and has worked flawlessly
Not loose at all, 09 June 2013
Maybe Jade is using 4mm cord or something with the device as I have to say this is the grabbiest and tightest(using 10mm rope) device I have ever used, almost to the point of being too slow on lowers/abseils.
Have yet to use in autolocking mode for belaying a second but don't doubt it'll do the job just fine.
Not my favourite belay as found it tough to get rope through fast enough while lead belaying but feels as safe and secure as anything else out there.
Only way this could be considered unsafe is if you're not holding on. Have taken big falls with a fairly inexperienced belayer and it locks up just fine.
user error is >>>>>>>
By Chris (Birmingham)
I can't say I have notice any loosness in the device, in fact it feels little thighter than my previous black dimond. I've used it for about 4 months now and tried it both in and outdoors, works as it should both on belaying and on abseiling.
The extra screwgate loop looks really good although i had no chance to test it yet. The extra friction hook is nice, recommended for heavy load lowering.
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